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Sideways pressure from the guide disc must be as light
as possible. After some short initial practice you will
naturally use less and less sideways pressure. |
|
Make sure the coating box is "tilted" very
slightly to ensure that the coating box blade extends
past the very edge of the bead. This is a fine balance
that will become second nature to you after short practice.
A general rule is that the more the coating box blade
extends over the bead the more chance for slop to drop.
Slop will happen, but with a little practice, it can be
minimized. (See photo to right). |
|
To ensure a near perfect finish coat always brush down
the bead with a sanding pole. The more attention
paid to detail here, the better. You will also find the
finish coat to go even faster and easier to apply. |
|
When boxing bullnose and 120 degree bead, the guide
disc must not come into contact with the round part of
the bullnose bead itself. If it does it can cause scratches
that will require touch ups. With bullnose bead
simply coat the same as regular 90 degree bead but avoid
contact between the guide disc and the bullnose bead itself. |
|
It is acceptable to use a 7 inch coating box then a 10 inch
coating box for your finish coat.
It is also acceptable to use a 10 inch coating box then
a 12 inch coating box for your finish coat. |
|
It is also important to note the 7 inch coating box
is much easier to use on beads especially for high horizontal
beads. Always use scaffolding when boxing high
horizontal beads. |
| |
See
the BeadBoxers Gallery or check out the
Video Demonstration |
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